Nusa Penida or Amed for my Open Water course ?

Manta rays are a good selling point for Nusa Penida

The two main hubs for diving in Bali are Nusa Penida and Amed, but which to choose to do your entry-level / Open water course diving certification?

Here is a brief rundown of the pros and cons of each place.

Your Open Water course in Nusa Penida 

Pros

1. Rewarding challenge

Nusa Penida is known for its currents and surge, yet thousands of people do their first dives there every year. The first dives can be a little challenging but 99 percent of the divers say they finish the course feeling confident and prepared. As any instructor will tell you, if you learn to dive in Penida, few places will surprise you and you can dive everywhere.

2. Big stuff

The currents and cold upwellings bring with them a host of large sea creatures, the most famous being the manta rays. They can be spotted year-round in Nusa Penida. Expect to see several sea turtles on most dives, bamboo sharks and reef sharks frequently, and mola mola in season. Every year brings surprising sightings like wobbegongs, whale sharks or hammerheads as well as sailfish, eagle rays or marbled rays. You never know what you're going to get and it's often BIG!

3. Incredible reefs

Again thanks to the currents and cold upwellings, there has been almost zero bleaching recorded in Nusa penida. The reefs are pristine and thriving. Expect to see huge healthy colonies of different corals both hard and soft. Nusa Penida has world-class reefs easily comparable to those of Komodo or Raja Ampat on certain sites.

Cons

1. Can be stressful

Certain people may feel more comfortable starting to dive in swimming pool conditions. Though completely safe and very exciting, Nusa Penida may make the first dive seem a little more challenging than in other very protected places but you will do so under good supervision and maximum safety. Remember that the dives you do after certification may not have the same conditions if you learn in easy conditions so make sure you are very very comfortable and perhaps pay for a refresher before diving into more exciting environments after your course if you did not get the chance to train in slightly more hardcore conditions.

2. Macro is hard to spot

If you are a small critter fan or a Nudibranch aficionado, Nusa Penida may at times be frustrating. The sheer volume of coral means small animals are slightly harder to spot. Drift dives are also not ideal for this. If you plan to become a macro photographer you may want to choose a different learning site.

3. Boat diving/ price

All dives in Nusa Penida are done from a boat, though this is great for people with back problems or who do not like too much effort in diving, it means less flexibility with regard to dive time and schedule. It also means a higher price for dives due to petrol costs. ( But you get to go on an amazing boat ride and see the breathtaking coast...)

If you want to look for macro, Amed /Tulamben will be more up your street ( here a pygmy seahorse Hippocampus bargibanti )

Your Open Water course in Amed

Pros.

1. shore dives

Shore dives mean more freedom with regard to timing and schedule. When you are finished with your dive, you can come out and relax on the shore while waiting for your car to pick you up. There is no need to worry about seasickness. If you are great on air, your dive operator may also let you stay longer underwater if you so desire.

2. Super easy conditions

Many of Amed's training sites offer swimming pool conditions with protected bays, easy access, and shallow waters. Even the famous USAT Liberty wreck is a very easy dive. If you are not comfortable, you can also just literally walk out of the water and sit on the beach.

3. Tiny critters

Amed is a macro mecca. If you love searching for small crabs or wonderful ghost pipe fish, this is the place to be. It attracts photographers and tiny critter lovers. Its calm shallow waters mean you can spend hours looking for small stuff on the sand and rubble.

Cons.

1. Damaged reef

Unfortunately, since 2002 Amed has experienced a number of bleaching events that have seriously damaged its reefs. Certain bays have seen a loss of up to 50 percent or more of their hard coral cover for certain species. Many pro divers lament how their favourite reefs, once so vibrant are now mostly grey. There are still beautiful spots but expect to witness the full impact of climate change directly here.

2. Lack of large megafauna

Though you may spot the odd turtle and Tech divers often see sharks, Amed is not a place people go for large animals. Baby reef sharks, the odd giant moray and giant barracuda are pretty much the only larger animals seen frequently. If you want big stuff, look up other destinations.

3. Waves and lower visibility

Though mostly boasting calm clear waters, Amed can sometimes experience waves and surge. When this happens the visibility in the shallows goes down to a few meters. This often happens in peak season and can last a few days. Rainy season can also bring river overflows and the bays turn to milky coffee with zero viz.

Similarities :

Both places are really nice to stay at with a village life feel and many off-the-beaten-track excursions to be found. Both places are developing very rapidly though so it may not stay this way for long.

Whichever place you decide to do your course at, it is worth visiting the other. They are very complimentary. They also both boast great diving, beautiful sites and a friendly atmosphere.